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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. But, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.